Well, the best graphic to start this blog would be the "day sheet" topographical profile of the ride we did today (Wed. 7/30). We get day sheets the night before each new bike day so we can either have sweet dreams, or perhaps nightmares:
We started to see more of the type of weather we expected in Scotland all along - windy, overcast and cool with the occasional spit of rain. After stoking up on Scottish porridge and eggs we left the Glen Lui hotel at 9:30 AM and started a day that would eventually accrue over 2,900 feet of climbing in only 24 miles.
June in room window
We had a great view
Peter was able to squeeze in a big of sketching time yesterday as well:
Ballater church turned B & B
For those of you who saw yesterday's "down, down, down and down" photo series, we started by climbing "up, up, up and up" the same route! We then turned northward away from yesterday's path and over a very picturesque stone bridge to start climb #1.
I'm the dot near the middle of the bridge
Bridge in context with where we were headed - UP
There were a few very steep but reasonably short climbs to start. I was glad to find I could pretty well judge when to call upon my very lowest gear - fondly known as "One One" - and save it for the grades approaching 15-20%. The wind was pretty helpful at this stage, and blew off the back of our left shoulder, acting a more a help than a hindrance. We could feel it getting stronger and stronger as the day progressed.
We were feeling cautiously optimistic about round 2 of climbing and stopped in a lovely tea shop around mile 12 for power scones and coffee. Word came down from our lead guide chalking the route that a truck hauling a huge load of water had become stuck trying to surmount the steepest grade (20+ %) which was navigable by bike but not by any cars, and they were backing up for quite a ways. By the time we had finished our snack it seemed reasonable that we could make it through.
In the 2 or so miles from the tea shop to the massive start of climbing at Cock Bridge we experienced howling winds, wind-driven rain and temperatures that dropped at least 15 degrees in a matter of minutes! We dug out rain gear and changed, only to have to take it off again before the big climb so as not to overheat.
Here is an inadequate view of what we tackled after Corgaff Castle (white castle in foreground) taken off a postcard, as it was raining sideways:
I apologize for the lack of photos from this point to the top - it was all we could do to stay upright and moving, and at one point between the crosswinds and the steep grade I peeked down to see that I was traveling at a blazing 3.6 MPH. No joke.
But make it to the very top we did, without a step of walking the bikes. Woo-Hoo! We were pretty proud of ourselves. The top has a ski area and chairlifts everywhere! We stopped for another snack and to regroup for the 7-mile downhill trip into Tomintoul - we put on lots of layers to stay warm.
The windmill is a good expression of height and copious wind!
Ski lifts and snow fence - aka at the top?
We were warned to be careful of sheep on the way down, as they can cross the road quickly and unexpectedly at any moment. The warning was not unfounded and the sign was correct, except it should have said at least for 5 miles!
Truth in advertising - there are sheep!
The downhill would have been indescribable save for the continuing crosswinds which scrubbed our speed, which was likely a good thing for our safety. At times we were having to pedal on the descent and were only going 10 MPH! But the terrain and scenery were unmatched.
June and cottage - I'm the yellow dot.
We also entered serious Whisky Country - this road sign gives you an idea:
We arrived at the Richmond Arms hotel in Tomintoul, feeling very accomplished. Just to give you a bit of insight to the work of our fabulous guides, here is a shot from our window - as we cleaned up and rested they cleaned and lubed our bikes and put them away for us, and our luggage was in our rooms. Awesome.
Peter was able to squeeze a bit more sketching time in a lieu of a nap - he is sketching our hotel:
The sketch
At 4:30 PM we gathered to have a singularly fantastic experience learning more about the "secret life of whisky" from proprietor Mike Drury at the Whisky Castle. We sampled at least 6 different whiskys to learn about the effects of casks, aging and the evils of shortcutting the process done by huge corporate manufacturers, and were entertained to no end by Mike's wonderful banter.
Jamie, Jeff and Danielle contemplating whisky
So many choices!
No whisky for me, but I did get a "hairy coo"!
Great whisky label with dog Laddie - I met him at the shop!
All this fun was followed by a lovely dinner across the street at the Clock Tower restaurant. We all greatly enjoyed our food, and we earned it!
Guide Rick, Jeff, Danielle, Guide Lucy and June
We loved Tomintoul's vibe and village architecture and wished we had more time here - that happens on every trip!
Time to get some rest before the next big climbing adventure tomorrow - we saw tomorrow's profile! While my writing might border on the overly dramatic, we are loving the biking and find the landscape literally and figuratively breathtaking - and we are so grateful to be here!
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Thursday morning was grey and ominous but no rain was falling as we departed the Richmond Arms. The day's ride was glorious even with some periods of rain - but no sideways wind!
Total mileage was 46.5 and 2,000 feet of climbing.
As pictures are worth so much more than words, and I'm so ready to go to bed, I will make this installment a picture essay - enjoy!
The glorious vistas of the Scottish Highlands.
We had more climbing to do, but nothing like yesterday and we all fared well.
We could see the rain coming, and were ready with our trusty Showers Pass rain gear.
Even with the rain, biking through the Caledonian pine forests was incredible.
Before riding on I had to visit the Highland ponies. This grey mare was as sweet and docile as can be.
We took a wee detour to visit the superbly scenic Loch an Eilean, one of the most scenic lakes in all of the Highlands.
We arrived at our accomodations at the Craigerne Hotel, cleaned up and enjoyed a thoroughly charming presentation by local Rob Ritchie on the history of shinty, an ancient stick and ball game that is a fusion of field hockey and hurling, and appears to be not for the faint of heart! I was totally enchanted by the weaving of stories and history. Newtonmore is the shinty epicenter of the world and the Scottish Highlands.
Our completely charming shinty guest lecturer Rob! Such fun.
We had dinner as a group in town and are so impressed with the quality and presentation of meals. Our service was also fabulous. At the end of the meal we started swapping travel stories and laughed long and loudly, pretty much clearing out the restaurant :)) All I can say is the best was saved for last, with Jeff telling of his "ladies bathing suit" adventure - you will have to ask him about it!
We saw tomorrow's topo - flat with an ending downhill as we cross the Highlands watershed. 39 miles of glorious riding ahead!
