Thursday, August 7, 2014

Wednesday 8/6 and Thursday 8/7 - Final Riding at the north end of Skye, and shuttling back to Edinburgh

As a group we decided to do a shorter ride for our Scotland bike touring finale, as the weather was looking dicey - guides Lucy and Craig loaded our bikes on the van trailer for a 15-mile motored ride up the east coast. But before leaving Portree we hung around to watch the town bagpipe band play in the square, to honor their fallen soldiers and open the Highland Games right in Portree.

Portree's senior statesmen waiting to parade in the main square

Guide Craig and June await the bagpipers (pictures of the band will follow)

We vanned up to a scenic overlook and started our ride after viewing the lovely Kilt Rock waterfall and this amazing geology:


The bike ride took us 19 miles around the top of the Isle of Skye.  It has a very wild and remote feel - mostly:

Elvis lives - even in remote northern Skye.

I am in love with spotted-leg black faced sheep!


It is all about the amazing scale.

And even more amazing scale - I'm the tiny orange spot on the left and the white object is an RV.

After the end of our ride, we had a lovely lunch and dried off in Uig. The van took us back to Portree for some afternoon town time - the Highland Games were in full swing and most of our group enjoyed watching the "heavies" toss hammers and cabers (and by their report, not always successfully!).


We hung out by the old waterfront:

The bagpipe band finished the day with a final march to mark the end of the Games:

Wonderful Scottish pageantry.

We noted that seagulls will be seagulls everywhere in the world - especially when French fries are involved:


And, Peter was able to get two more sketches done after a long hiatus:
View of Portree from the window of our room at the Marmalade Hotel.

Town center Portree.

We had a lovely farewell dinner (I loved the haggis/tatties/neeps appetizer and main course mussels!) and sang song lyrics to guides Lucy and Craig that we all made up on our rides to guides. We can hardly believe it is actually time to head home...

We left Portree and headed back to Edinburgh, dropping Jeff and Danielle at Fort William so they could take a train to Glasgow. We all did enjoy one more castle photo op on the way to Edinburgh:


Thank you all for following along - we are leaving at 9:15 am Scotland time tomorrow to head home! Big thanks again to guides Craig, Lucy and Rick for making the trip so wonderful, and to all our new bike touring friends as well.  Happy trails!

Wednesday, August 6, 2014

Tuesday 8/5 - Armandale to Portree via Elgol and a boat ride

Awoke in Armandale to leaden skies that turned to an earnest rain exactly at the time we had planned to start our 31-mile bike journey to Elgol, where the plan was to board a Zodiac boat and tour the west coast of Skye from the water.


The weather improved almost instantly as we pedaled out of Armadale and soon we were all stripping off our rain gear, arm warmers and long-fingered gloves.

Magnificent vistas at every turn on the island

The scale of the landscape is unimaginable until you are there - unfortunately pictures do not do the drama any justice, but at least it's something to remind us!

Those of you familiar with Experience Plus bike tours and our past trips know that the premier feature is the arrow system - we never really need to consult a map (but we do have them) - and the guides take great care to warn us of various hazards such as cattle grids, loose clippings (aka gravel) and rough pavement - but this warning was my favorite of the tour:

The triangle-exclamation point warns of gooey cow poop in the cycling lane - whew, that would have been BAD. Hugely appreciated that chalking!

Once again an amazing, vast vista of magnificent mountains - we felt very, very small and we were.


Guide Craig chalks us a Scottish congratulations for making it over the last of 3 climbs. We totaled nearly 2,000 feet of climbing in the 31 mile ride today.

We reached Elgol and the visitor's center in time for lunch - the sandwich was "squat lobster" and note the haggis-flavored chips!


After eating and leaving our bikes and sundries with Guide Lucy, we were "kitted out" with waterproof gear and sent down the pier to board our private Zodiac boat for a seaside tour of the west coast of Skye:

Well suited and life-preserved

Somehow I felt like Gumby in the boating gear - it was cool!

This west coast of Skye is almost inaccessible by anything but boat or mountain climbing!

We were taken to a cove to disembark and walk up to one of the inner lakes, which also brought us right by a gathering of harbor seals. They are absolutely fascinating to watch and are completely unconcerned with big boats - but kayaks make them a bit skittish:





Walking up the rocky, peaty path was very interesting. Guide Craig gave us lots of good info on the geology, flora and fauna of the area.

Mountain outflow waterfall

Posing with the dramatic backdrop - note the tiny people way to the right-center of the scene! A vast landscape.

All the views from the boat were captivating - we watched gannets and cormorants flying and also could see shadows of the Outer Hebridies - it was amazing!



June and fellow cyclist Joy get windblown - loved flying by 40 miles of coastline in the Zodiac!

We made landfall just outside Talisker where Lucy and the ExPlus van picked us up and brought us to the Talisker distillery for a whisky tour (again!) - this is a very modern outfit making the famous super-peaty tasting spirits. 

After touring - and tasting - we went to our hotel for a night on own own to dine and take a short spin around Portree before calling it a day - another very BIG day! 

Tomorrow is our last day of biking. The weather report is a bit ominous so we will be playing it by eat whether to bike, van to the Highlands Museum or just hang out in Portree.  Hoping to get at least a big of riding in to cap off an amazing tour!




Monday, August 4, 2014

Sunday 8/3 and Monday 8/4 - Strontian to Ardnamurchan Point and Strontian to Armadale, Isle of Skye

OK blog-following friends, it is time once again for June to post a double day's blog without sacrificing an entire night's sleep, so that can mean only one thing - it's photo essay time! Enjoy Peter' great pictures.

Sunday to Ardnamurchen Lighhouse with shuttle back, 35 miles and 3,060 feet of climbing!


Two views from the front door of the Strontian Inn, our home for 2 nights. Today would be the last bike leg for the 8-day group and it dawned sunny and dry. What a great start!

As Peter and I biked away we saw a gathering of young riders and their ponies. I found out there was a pony club show all day right across the street and I missed all of it! Just not enough hours in the day to get it all in.

Our single-track road to the lighthouse, no wider than a MN bike trail. It takes quite a bit of awareness to figure out the passing protocol. Thank god I'm fully adapted to right-eye rear view mirrors!


One of so many gorgeous views on this hilly ride - almost no flat stretches whatsoever! The ExPlus guides consider this one of the toughest ride days in the trip, but very worth it.


In the tradition of Experience Plus! Tours, we are all asked to find a person who enhances our travel experience, and in turn we give them an ExPlus bike hat in thanks. Hugh was my guy - he came up the road in his Wellies and started to browse the bushes behind us. I thought he was berry picking, but in truth he was an amateur naturalist looking for "slow worms" in the brush. Now it is up to you all to Google "slow worm Scotland" and find out for yourself what they are all about! A delightful encounter. I never saw a slow worm that day but did return to the same spot Monday and saw one!


Scenic Scenic Scenic

Up Up Up

None of my blogs are truly complete without a picture - or two or three - of sheep and hairy coos!

These are the coolest beasties ever. I'd like to get one for Bjorne :)


After lunch the scenery continued to be sublime, but clouds were gathering...


The little white spec to the left is A HOUSE! The glens were staggeringly beautiful and immense.

At this juncture we were hit with torrential rain that created rivers on the roadway, and immense waterfalls appeared everywhere! We got soggy, but with so much climbing we stayed warm.

Once the rain abated I was able to stop and visit with a local. No hat, but he and his pony friend got all my stash of sugar lumps!


This gives you an idea of what a Highlands traffic jam looks like.


We stopped to visit with a lovely lady training her 9-month-old Border Collie named Ruby to sheep. It was impressive to watch.

Made it to the lighthouse! Thank god they didn't have to sound the horn when I was in the line of fire.


Roy looks down from the top of the lighhouse, 152 steps up. It is still fully functional.

Quite a sight! The lighthouse is the only "Egyptian Style" of its kind, designed by Alan Stevenson, uncle of the famous writer Robert Louis Stevenson. It was built in 1849 and is 36 meters high.

Peter strikes a lighthouse-worthy pose as he scans the Atlantic Ocean - we are at the most westerly point in the entire U.K. mainland!

The intrepid bikers celebrate their achievements over a long week of challenging Scottish terrain.

Our guides are the BEST! From left Rick, Lucy and Craig, the Scottish flag and celebratory whisky.

Michael showed us the resulting topo of the ride - over 3,000 feet of climbing in the 35 mile trip. We did return by shuttle bus to the Strontian Hotel to have our farewell dinner for the departing 4 riders and guide Rick. The blog would have to wait - we were given a very extensive quiz of all things both Scottish and about out group members, and our three teams duked it our with the winners being Danielle, Joy, Suzanne and June (aka "Team Fuzzy Unicorn") - the gals prevailed!

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Monday, Strontian to Armandale - The Isle of Skye

Well, the weather pattern has held true - if you start the day with fair weather you will eventually see rain in the afternoon, and conversely, if you start with rain you will eventually see fair weather. It is all mind over matter when the rain begins.

A very different sky view from the front of the Strontian Inn on Monday morning - drizzly stuff.

We sadly bid farewell to Suzanne, Michael, Brad, Roy and guide Rick as they headed back east to Edinburgh. The group of 8 remaining were a bit somber, a combination of the goodbyes, the rain, and the 50-mile ride to Mallaig and the ferry to Skye.

Rain means far fewer pictures but this church graveyard and WWI memorial arch were too interesting to pass by.

Water, water everywhere. The rains create stunning waterfalls all through the route, and they run hard and fast.

At times the ride was a bit of a slog due to the chilly temps and rain, but I was always cheered by the sight of sheep ranging the roadsides! Really appreciating my Showers Pass rain gear.


Peter gave his ExPlus hat to a Swiss bike tourist who was gritting out the climbs - she did not have a good bike, proper shoes or clothing, but she had a smile on her face anyway! Tough gal! We admired her grit.


Peter and I finally made it to our lunch stop in Arisaig around 1:30 pm with 40 miles of hilly stuff done. We had bowls of Cullen Skink - aka haddock chowder - and that set us totally right with the world. We came out of lunch to bright sunshine and clearing skies - AND a tailwind!


Post-lunch, ultra cute calf with mom - very new calf. They both had the exact same markings!

Lots of sea birds along the way - this brown gull was posing in Mallaig as we waited for our 4:30 ferry.

Our trusty ExPlus van and bikes on trailer expertly driven on the ferry by guide Lucy.


The views from the ferry were amazing! Skye here we come.

And finally the view of Armadale beachfront from the window of our room at the Ardvasar Hotel:
Hoping to have a watercolor from Peter to show you for the next post!

Good night and thanks for following along!